It is a common misconception that RPM has a “no questions asked” warranty policy. Although we do have the best warranty in the R/C industry, it is not “no questions asked”. The following text describes in detail what our warranty does and does not cover, subject to RPM final review. Quick Links: Warranty Terms and Restrictions / Failures due to non-RPM parts / RPM Decorative Finishes / RPM Scale Accessories / RPM Wheels / Screw Holes / Hardware Failures / Discontinued Products / What You Need To Do / Return Shipping / International Customers / RPM Liability / Footnotes (1) / Footnotes (2) Warranty Terms and Restrictions: If you manage to break an RPM molded product under normal operating conditions(1), we will replace that part (meaning the damaged part only – not any assemblies that come packaged together) at no further cost to you(2). Normal operating conditions covers most types of driving conditions that an unmodified, stock R/C vehicle would normally encounter, including most normal bumps, jumps, and road hazards. RPM will not warranty a broken or damaged part if it has been modified in any way (or if the part breaks due to modifications elsewhere on the vehicle that directly affects the RPM part in question). This includes, but is not limited to, drilling, grinding, filing, etc., nor will we warranty any part that has been worn out through extended use and / or abuse. In addition, it is nearly impossible to crush an RPM part under normal operating conditions, therefore crush damage of any sort will not be covered. Melting an RPM part is also impossible under normal operating conditions. It takes temperatures in excess of 300° F to melt an RPM part. If it’s melted, you need to find the problem and correct it because the RPM part is not the problem. Bending an RPM part until it can no longer function properly does not fall within warranty guidelines either. Please contact us in this situation. We may have a solution that can correct the problem without the item in question ever having to be sent in. Please use common sense to determine if the breakage was caused by a materials or workmanship issue. We take great pride in the engineering and craftsmanship that goes into each and every RPM part. Therefore, we take our customer service related issues just as seriously and we will do everything possible to resolve legitimate warranty related claims. RPM reserves the right to final judgment regarding all warranty issues. Every RPM part sent in for warranty review will be reviewed by a member of the RPM staff to determine whether or not the guidelines of the RPM warranty policy apply. We test every part we build on a stock, unmodified vehicle. We can only guarantee the fit and performance of an RPM part based on the stock, unmodified vehicle. Any...Read More
It is a common misconception that RPM has a “no questions asked” warranty policy. Although we do have the best warranty in the R/C industry, it is not “no questions asked”. The following text describes in detail what our warranty does and does not cover, subject to RPM final review. Quick Links: Warranty Terms and Restrictions / Failures due to non-RPM parts / RPM Decorative Finishes / Screw Holes / Hardware Failures / Discontinued Products / What You Need To Do / Return Shipping / International Customers / RPM Liability / Footnotes (1) / Footnotes (2) Warranty Terms and Restrictions: The RPM warranty on all aerial products is a materials and workmanship policy only. Breakage due to heavy landings or crashes, mid-air impacts or other type of collision are not covered unless a defect in the product was the direct cause of the break. If the damaged part failed due to a materials or workmanship issue under normal operating conditions(1), we will replace that part (meaning the damaged part only – not any assemblies that come packaged together) at no further cost to you(2). RPM will not warranty a broken or damaged part if it has been modified in any way (or if the part breaks due to modifications elsewhere on the vehicle that directly affects the RPM part in question). This includes, but is not limited to, drilling, grinding, filing, etc., nor will we warranty any part that has been worn out through extended use and / or abuse. Bending an RPM part until it can no longer function properly does not fall within warranty guidelines either. Please contact us in this situation. We may have a solution that you can use to correct the problem. Please use common sense to determine if the breakage was caused by a materials or workmanship issue. We take great pride in the engineering and craftsmanship that goes into each and every RPM part. Therefore, we take our customer service related issues just as seriously and we will do everything possible to resolve legitimate warranty related claims. RPM reserves the right to final judgment regarding all warranty issues. Every RPM part sent in for warranty review will be reviewed by a member of the RPM staff to determine whether or not the guidelines of the RPM warranty policy apply. We test every part we build on a stock, unmodified vehicle. We can only guarantee the fit and performance of an RPM part based on the stock, unmodified vehicle. Any additional non-RPM parts or modifications made to your vehicle may affect the performance of any purchased or installed RPM products and can quite possibly void the RPM warranty. It is the responsibility of the vehicle’s owner to determine whether or not additional non-RPM aftermarket items or physical modifications to the vehicle will affect the fit or performance of any RPM products installed. Failures directly...Read More
Yes, you can. Please follow this link to the Downloads section of the RPM website for a comprehensive listing of all of the RPM Instructions Sheets currently available.Read More
Unfortunately no, we do not offer direct sales. Although there are numerous links throughout the RPM website that allow you to purchase our products online, they are not direct sales links to RPM. They take you to Shopatron, an online intermediary that allows RPM to connect you, our loyal customers to a local retailer near you directly through the RPM website. RPM is affiliated with all of the major distributors in the USA, as well as many international distributors throughout the world. Because of our expansive distribution network, acquiring RPM products is quite simple. We choose to support your local hobby shops by making our products available through their distributors. By purchasing through your local hobby shop, you get the best local information as well as person-to-person technical support. If a local hobby shop is not available, then please consider using our “Add to cart” links placed throughout our website which will connect you to Shopatron. Retailers: Would you like to receive orders directly from the RPM website? It’s simple and FREE. Retailers are the most important part of the Shopatron network and in the distribution process for RPM. Once you become a Shopatron retailer, you can view RPM orders placed on-line from our website and fulfill orders from your available stock, delivering excellent customer service with an experienced hand. Quality retailers are invited to join the Shopatron network FREE. Acquire new customers. Make additional sales. Learn what RPM products are selling...Read More
How do I check camber & toe angles on vehicles with large tires such as the Traxxas T/E-Maxx, HPI Savage, Tamiya Terra Crusher, Associated Monster GT, etc.?
Camber on vehicles with large tires can be easily checked with the RPM Monster Camber Gauge. An excellent starting camber angle for off-road use is approximately 3 degrees of negative camber at all four corners. Use less camber (approximately 1 degree negative) on the rear wheels when using the vehicle for on-road conditions. Front wheel camber for on-road use should still be left at approximately 2 – 3 degrees of negative camber to compensate for suspension dive in the corners. Toe angles can be checked using the same RPM Monster Camber Gauge. We do not recommend using the RPM Toe-In gauge to check large tire diameters because the gauge cannot reach the center-line of the wheel, which would result in inaccurate results. To use the RPM Monster Camber Gauge to check toe angles, all you have to do is have a 2″ x 4″ block of wood or other square object handy to rest the front of your wheels against (be sure that there is clearance around the bumper and skid plate areas in the wood). To check front toe angles, turn on your transmitter and receiver and allow your steering servo to come to rest. Leave the transmitter and receiver on while checking your front wheel toe angles. Bump your wheels equally against the block of wood (check to be sure that only the tires are hitting), then place the gauge horizontally across the face of the tire and place the base of the gauge against your block of wood. The reading on the gauge is your toe angle for that one side. Please remember that this angle, plus the angle of your second wheel, will be your total toe angle. Once you adjust in your front toe angle, run the truck and use your steering trim on your transmitter to adjust straight line tracking. Rear wheel toe is done identically to the front except you do not have the convenience of a transmitter to adjust straight line tracking. Unfortunately, there currently is no accurate way of checking rear wheel toe angles in relation to the chassis. The best method to get an accurate rear toe angle is to measure the length of your toe links. Once you are sure both rear toe links are identical in length, make sure toe angle adjustments are made equally between sides. For front wheels, a negative reading on the gauge represents toe out, while a positive reading represents toe in. For rear wheels, a negative reading on the gauge represents rear wheel toe in. An excellent starting point for most large tire trucks is approximately 1/2 degree of toe in per side for front wheels & 2 degrees per side for rear...Read More
What is the proper way to install & adjust my Losi LST Camber Rods in my RPM Adjustable Camber A-arms?
The camber rods that come with the RPM LST Upper A-arms must be installed according to the instructions in order to achieve the maximum amount of camber adjustment. If the rod is threaded too far into one side or the other, you will loose a certain amount of camber adjustment but that can easily be fixed. The following photos show the proper distances for a visual check not available in the instruction sheet. Please refer to the instruction sheet that comes with the RPM LST A-arms for instructions not listed here. This FAQ should be used as a reference and supplemental to the instruction sheet supplied with your RPM A-arms. Photo #1 shows the camber rod threaded into the main A-arm at the proper length of approximately 15/16″ (0.935″) from the end of the A-arm to the far end of the camber rod. Note that the shoulder of the camber rod is still about 3/32″ away from the edge of the A-arm. Photo #2 shows the A-arm completely assembled at the starting point listed in the instructions. The distance between the two A-arm parts is approximately 3/8″ (0.370″). It is important to note that the side of the camber rod that has the shoulder is actually inside of the second part of the A-arm. No threads are showing outside of the A-arm. This is normal and designed to be this way. Photo #3 shows the assembled A-arm completely threaded in to the maximum camber position with approximately a 3/16″ gap (0.200″ of the camber rod is still showing for approximately 3/16″ of adjustability in the negative direction). With the camber rod installed properly, you will have the full range of camber adjustments available to you. If you have installed a set of RPM A-arms on your LST and you can’t get the camber to adjust to an angle close to 3 degrees of negative camber (you will never need anything more than 3 degrees of negative camber for nearly any type of racing or bashing environment), you have threaded the camber rod into one side or the other too far and it has bottomed out. Determine which side is threaded in too far and adjust that side out while adjusting the opposite side in the same amount of turns to maintain the proper distance between parts. That should correct the lack of camber...Read More
We have released a set of pivot ball setscrews that are designed to allow the use of RPM T/E-Maxx steering knuckles on your truck. You will need the following parts to install them on your truck: 2 packages – RPM Axle Carriers 2 packages – RPM Pivot Ball Setscrews & Bushing Caps It is important to note, the stock Associated MGT and the Traxxas T/E-Maxx steering knuckles have identical geometry. This is not some half-baked conversion – it works and it works well. The only differences between the two are in the spacing between the bearings and in the pivot ball setscrew threads. Both of these differences are addressed with our #80010 Pivot Ball Setscrews & Bushing Caps package. Please note, the stock Associated pivot ball setscrews will not work in the RPM axle carriers. The installation then becomes a simple matter of replacing your stock MGT parts with the replacement parts listed above. Start by noting your current camber and toe angles and then remove the stock axle carriers. Place one of the new RPM oversized bearings supplied with your RPM carriers on to the axle and then sliding your new RPM axle carrier on to the axle as well, followed by one of the new RPM spacers from the #80010 kit, and then placing the second oversized bearing in the axle carrier. The axle spacer must be placed between the two bearings in order for the bearings to roll freely and not bind. Once the axle carrier and bearings are in place, thread the pivot balls into your upper and lower A-Arms through the axle carrier (follow the instructions supplied with your A-Arms if you are installing RPM A-Arms at the same time). Now, press a pivot ball bushing into a pivot ball cap from the #80010 package and carefully thread the cap assembly into the thread on your RPM axle carrier. Start the thread as if you were going to remove the cap (counter-clockwise) until the thread falls into place (this will start it straight to prevent the thread from stripping), and then begin threading the cap in (clockwise). As you get close to threading the cap all the way in, check to be sure there is enough clearance (by moving the carrier in and out until the slop is virtually eliminated) to allow your axle carrier to move freely. Do this for both pivot ball caps on each carrier, and then at all four corners of the truck. Don’t forget to reattach your toe links at this time as well. Once you get your wheels & tires reinstalled, now would be a great time to reset your camber and toe angles because they will be off! See our FAQ page regarding toe and camber adjustments for trucks with large diameter tires here or follow the link listed to the left. With RPM A-Arms and carriers...Read More
Your stock shock mount screws that held your shocks to your old A-arms will work just fine. It may seem like the holes on the RPM T/E-Maxx A-arms are too small but that is simply because they do not have the threads cut into them yet. The hole size in our A-arms is the correct diameter for the stock 3mm. screws. It may seem difficult to get the thread started but that is simply because RPM A-arms are so tough! We recommend starting the threads into the A-arm before you install the A-arms on your truck. This will give you better leverage in a position that’s not quite as awkward as when the A-arms are already mounted on the vehicle. Once the threads are started in each of your A-arms (only three or four threads into the hole are needed), finish the installation of the shock mounting screws after the A-arms are bolted on to the truck. Don’t forget to install some jam nuts on the back of each bolt to keep the shock mounting screws from pulling out of the holes under hard landings or crashes. What we mean by “jam nut” is any 3mm. nut available that will fit in between the shock mount bosses while still missing the axle. A standard 3mm. nut will work just fine; lock nuts aren’t necessary. The nylon of the A-arm will act as a “nylock” and hold the nut in place as long as the nut is tightened securely against the shock mount...Read More
The look of a scale ball hitch can be achieved using a hand-drill or drill press and a standard ball-stud. Associated Ball Studs work well, but a true scale appearance will be most closely achieved with an oversized ball stud from any manufacturer such as Associated or Lunsford, to name a couple. You will also need a nut to hold the ball stud in place once mounted to the bumper (T/E-Maxx bumpers only). Start by marking a spot on the bumper for the ball stud (although the photos on this page show the use of a marker, RPM recommends using a pencil or other easily removable marking device because a marker will leave permanent marks!). Using a scale or ruler, measure 1/2 the distance between the bumper mounting holes (about 1.025″ or 1-1/32″ for the T/E-Maxx Bumper and 0.818″ or 13/16″ for the Revo Bumper) and mark the bumper. Next, at that spot, measure from the back (the license plate area of the bumper), 0.200″ or 13/64″ for both the T/E-Maxx Bumper & the Revo Bumper (1/2 the distance to the front) and place a bright dot on the bumper. This will be the spot to drill. Be sure not to get too close to the front edge of the bumper or a nut will not fit over the thread (T/E-Maxx Bumper only). Revo owners, do not use a nut. It will hit on the lower tubular bar. T/E-Maxx owners – If you are using a standard 4-40 ball stud, use a #39 drill and drill through only one wall of the bumper (if you are using a 5-40 ball stud, use a 1/8″ drill). See the drill sizes listed for the Revo below if you do not wish to use a nut. Revo owners – Use a #43 drill for 4-40 ball studs and a #38 drill for a 5-40 ball stud. It may also be easier to drill through from the bottom of the bumper, this way, you won’t risk hitting the lower tubular bar and risk voiding the RPM warranty on the bumper. Carefully drill through the flat area of the bumper. It might be a wise idea to use a tap and thread the hole before trying to install the ball stud since the hole is close to the edge of the flat area of the bumper. Once the hole is threaded with the tap, simply thread the ball stud in place. T/E-Maxx owners – Do not drill all the way through both walls. Once the hole has been drilled, thread the ball stud into the bumper until it just starts to show through the bottom. Now place the nut under the thread and finish threading the ball stud through the bumper. If the hole was drilled to the proper size, a nut may not be necessary although it will keep the ball stud from...Read More
Before you begin, we recommend replacing the Phillips screws supplied with some versions of the Traxxas Stampede with the screw kit from a VXL version Stampede. They are better quality, hex screws. You will need both 2mm and 2.5mm hex drivers if you pursue this option. The rear skid plate bolts right on to the Stampede with no modifications, other than you cannot use the new third mounting post in the center of the RPM skid plate. The post lines up directly under a cross rib in the chassis that would interfere with the mounting screw. The RPM skid plate, even with the unattached post, is still far superior to the stock unit! If you intend to run a wheelie bar, you will need to install an RPM Bumper / Wheelie Bar Mount. The Traxxas wheelie bar mount will not work with the RPM rear skid plate. Attaching the front RPM skid plate requires a little extra work, but goes rather easy. To start, simply remove the stock Traxxas skid plate from the truck. Begin the modification by drilling out the third mount post hole in the RPM skid plate all the way through using a #38 drill (.101″ Dia.). Next, looking from the top of the chassis down, on the passenger (right) side of the vehicle, there is a small hole 1/2″ in front of the antenna hole. Using the same #38 drill, drill through that chassis hole all the way through the bottom of the chassis. Now you can install the skid plate using the two larger flathead screws into the front bulkhead. Using one of the screws that held the rear of the stock skid in place, thread it into the new hole you just drilled near the antenna. For the next step you will need to remove the two battery strap hex posts to move the receiver out of the way. Now, using the same #38 drill as before, use the hole in the skid plate from step #1 as a guide to drill down and through the chassis. You’ll notice that there is still one leg of the skid plate without a mounting hole. Using the #38 drill, hold the other leg of the skid plate in place and use the skid plate hole as a guide to drill through that hole and all the way through the chassis as well. Remove the skid plate and using a 1/8″ diameter drill, redrill both the center post and driver’s side leg hole to bring the size to the correct 1/8″ dimension. Caution: Do not drill out the passenger’s side hole to 1/8″! Now you can reinstall the RPM front skid plate and use the included M3 X 12mm screws (1 ea.) provided with the RPM skid plates in both the center skid post then in from the bottom on the driver’s side (left) rear leg...Read More
All RPM nylon parts can be dyed with outstanding results! This includes parts that are natural white, yellow, blue, etc. The key to remember is that you can only dye a part darker than its current color. For example, a yellow part can be dyed orange, red, green ,blue, purple, etc., yet a blue part can only be dyed a darker shade of blue, dark purple or black. To get started, simply boil some water, add some Rit™ clothing dye of the color you want the parts to be to the boiling water (start with a small amount of dye and add more later if the parts don’t reach the desired color depth – don’t forget to remove the parts from the solution before adding more dye), and then place your new RPM dyeable parts in the water. Be sure that the dye is completely saturated in the water before adding your parts! The depth and shade of the color will vary depending on time left in the water/dye solution, the amount of dye used, and the temperature of the water. Usually, higher concentrations of dye darken the color of the parts faster, as will higher water temperatures. Use caution because the parts will look lighter in color when first removed from the hot water. When the color looks close, but still slightly lighter than what you want, remove the parts from the water/dye solution and let them cool. They will darken slightly after cooling. If they aren’t quite dark enough at this point, place them back in the solution for a brief time until the color is to the tint of your choice. Important note: To make all of your parts identical in color, either dye all of them at the same time, or take careful notes during the dyeing process such as; 1) Water temperature (i.e. fast boil, slow simmer, etc.). 2) Amount of dye and water used. 3) Type and manufacturer of the dye. 4) Time the parts spent in the dye solution. Additionally: Because this is a dyeing process of the parts, and not a plating process, the dye will have absolutely no effect on the adhesive bond when tires are glued to our dyeable...Read More
Yes, RPM chrome parts are dyeable using the same methods mentioned on the standard dyeing technique page. The following images illustrate a small sampling of what you can do to customize the looks of your RPM chrome parts beyond what we’ve done straight from the factory. This #80103 T/E-Maxx chrome bumper was dyed using Rit “Kelly Green” #32. This is a #80093 T/E-Maxx chrome rear bumper with a two tone dye that was dyed partially with Rit “Cardinal Red” #9 and Rit “Purple” #13. We split the colors for a demonstration of the number of color options available for limitless personalization of your RPM parts. This is an excellent example of what a little creativity can do to spice up a 2.2″ truck wheel. This gold look can be achieved using Rit “Sunshine Orange” #43. We have found that this color will give us a somewhat pumpkin color of orange when we dyed a white wheel, but when a chrome wheel is dyed with this same orange color, as you can see, the effect is quite stunning! There are quite a few companies producing anodized red aluminum aftermarket parts for several monster trucks and Rit “Cardinal Red” #9 will add that extra bit of flare to your RPM chrome Titan wheels for your ride. This is one of many dazzling color choices you can use to customize any RPM chrome products. Even our line of Losi Mini-T truck wheels have the versatility of dying options. RPM does not offer our line of Mini-T wheels in our Blue Chrome, yet you can get the exact same effect on your own. This wheel was dyed using Rit “Royal Blue” #29. When placed side by side with one of our Blue Chrome wheels, the color is indistinguishable from one to the next! Sedans are known for serious customization in the few areas visible on the car. Wheels are excellent platforms for such customization. These RPM #80783 sedan wheels show what some Rit “Purple” #13 dye can do to add that extra bit of bling to an already sweet looking wheel. Placed next to an RPM purple chrome wheel, we couldn’t tell the difference! Yes, we know, we already showed you green, but these RPM Monster Clawz looked so good in green, we couldn’t resist showing them off. Besides, one of the hottest themes in monster trucks is the Grave Digger look. What better way to help promote that look than with a set of chrome Monster Clawz dyed with Rit “Kelly Green” #32. Please note: These effects were very simple to acquire but some colors don’t take too well to our chrome. For example, Rit “Golden Yellow” #42 looks great on a white dyeable product but it didn’t color the chrome wheels at all. Another Rit color we weren’t happy with was Rit “Dark Green” #35. On chrome, the effect was entirely too...Read More